From its royal origins to its enduring revival, Cambodian silk blends indigenous worms, plant dyes, and rural empowerment; complete guide + care tips.
A textile treasure of the Angkor Empire, Cambodian silk is being reborn after nearly extinction under the Khmer Rouge. Today, village workshops like Koh Dach (Silk Island), Takeo, Golden Silk Pheach, and IKTT are recreating the entire industry: breeding native worms, plant-based dyes, ikat weaving, and fair trade. While 80–90% of the thread is still imported, the kingdom is planting new mulberry trees and is aiming for hol to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site by 2026. This guide details the history, production, sustainability issues—and how to choose an authentic piece, which TEVOA promotes through the collections of these partner brands.
From royal fiber to a resilient sector
The origins
The bas-reliefs of Angkor Thom already show the sampot chang kben in silk twill worn by the court in the 12th century. The threads then came from India and China, but local weaving developed from the 7th century according to the annals of Funan.
Collapse and rebirth
The civil war (1967-75) and then the Khmer Rouge regime banned sericulture; national production fell below one ton in 1980. Japanese NGOs revived breeding in the 1990s; Artisans Angkor trained 1,000 young rural people from 1992.
Towards global recognition
Since 2023, Phnom Penh has been preparing the UNESCO nomination of hol ikat weaving; the inscription of Krama as intangible heritage at the end of 2023 sets an encouraging precedent.
Mapping the Khmer silk terroirs
| Area | Specificity | Key players |
|---|---|---|
| Takeo – Prey Kabbas | Ikat hol with geometric patterns; 6,000 weavers | Family cooperatives, MGC Museum exhibition |
| Koh Dach (Mekong Island) | Sericulture on a village scale; “from cocoon to loom” demonstrations for visitors | Community centers, Silk Island Silk, family farms |
| Siem Reap / Phnom Srok | Native yellow worms ( Golden Silk ); 30% stronger thread | Golden Silk Pheach, farm museum |
| Preah Vihear | Seed-to-scarf reforestation » | IKTT – Institute for Khmer Traditional Textiles |
Focus on Koh Dach – Silk Island
Located 15 km northeast of Phnom Penh, Koh Dach stretches along ten kilometers of sandy shoreline in the heart of the Mekong. Known since pre-Angkorian times for its pedal-powered looms, the island today has around 400 families who still raise silkworms, dye with plant pigments and weave krama , hol and satin for the markets of the capital. .
- Family workshops offer demonstrations “from cocoon to weaving”, a key means of intergenerational transmission.
- Responsible tourism provides up to 50% of some weavers' income, according to the Wander-Lush guide.
- New micro-enterprises are selling fair trade certified scarves and krama online.
From chenille to fabric – key steps
Sericulture and reeling
Cambodian Bombyx mori worms are fed eight times a day on fresh leaves; each cocoon delivers ~300 m of raw filament.
Natural dyes
- Indigofera for blue, jackfruit and prahoat for yellow, Garcinia cambodgiensis for green.
- Indigo + turmeric combination = traditional emerald green.
Ikat weaving ( hol )
The threads are tied and dyed before weaving, creating characteristic fuzzy patterns – a technique similar to Indian patola but with a Khmer palette.
Social & environmental impact
- According to the Silk Centre, 20,000 households now make a living from weaving or worm farming.
- The government is targeting 100 ha of new mulberry plantations by 2026 to reduce yarn imports ($108k imported in 02/2025).
- Cocoon waste is used as biomass, reducing CO₂ emissions by 40% in some pilot farms.
Choosing, maintaining and recognizing real Cambodian silk
- Texture : visible irregularities, “squeaky” sound when rubbed.
- Label : favor the Fair-Weave, Artisans Angkor or Golden Silk labels for full traceability.
- Care : cold wash, neutral soap, dry flat, iron at 110°C max.
Express FAQ
Is Cambodian silk more durable than Thai silk?
Yes: local yellow worms spin a 30% stronger yarn and vegetable dyes reduce the chemical footprint.
Why is yarn still imported?
Industrial spinning disappeared in 1975; local production (< 50 t) barely covers 10% of national demand.